highenoughtoseethesea:

"While most veterans exit the world tour quietly, Damo got fired up. After losing in last year’s Pipe Masters, he stayed at Pipe for a couple weeks to wait for the next swell. When it came, he copped the rail of his surfboard to his grill in a horrendous wipeout. He went to the hospital, got stitched up and then got back in the lineup. Sitting 40 feet inside everyone, Damo was looking for the most hair raising of First Reef drops. Just glassy eyed. Fearless. Possessed! And for what? He has nothing to prove. But when the next set came in, there he was. Smiling through two black eyes, a couple stitches and a swollen nose, turning and paddling as hard as he could to catch it. For my brothers and I, it’s Damien’s warrior spirit that we have connected with."
Tanner Gudauskas on Damo Hobgood // Photo: DJ Struntz

highenoughtoseethesea:

"While most veterans exit the world tour quietly, Damo got fired up. After losing in last year’s Pipe Masters, he stayed at Pipe for a couple weeks to wait for the next swell. When it came, he copped the rail of his surfboard to his grill in a horrendous wipeout. He went to the hospital, got stitched up and then got back in the lineup. Sitting 40 feet inside everyone, Damo was looking for the most hair raising of First Reef drops. Just glassy eyed. Fearless. Possessed! And for what? He has nothing to prove. But when the next set came in, there he was. Smiling through two black eyes, a couple stitches and a swollen nose, turning and paddling as hard as he could to catch it. For my brothers and I, it’s Damien’s warrior spirit that we have connected with."

Tanner Gudauskas on Damo Hobgood // Photo: DJ Struntz